Storm Windows

Large, round-top and insert-only options

• Our heavy-duty #120 insert covers larger openings up to 40 square feet and accepts glass up to 3/16″ thick
• #120 inserts also come as round-top storm inserts
• Aluminum-framed inserts without the main frame, for openings that need minimal projection
• Larson fixed storm windows are also available

Wood storm windows, service and installation

Truax has been making custom wood storm windows, wood screen doors and wood storm doors since 1946. We also service and repair storm windows and doors brought into our shop, including glass replacement.

Prefer not to install them yourself? We offer professional installation of storm windows and storm doors throughout the Portland area.

Storm window installation instructions

These steps are for installing our aluminum storm windows yourself. Give us a call if anything doesn’t fit the way you expect.

1. Measure. Measure the width (A) at the top, bottom and middle of the window, just inside the exterior trim. Measure the height (B) from the sill at the face of the blind stop to the bottom of the exterior window trim. There’s normally a ½″ blind stop just inside the trim; that’s the surface you’ll screw the storm window to. Order using the smallest of the three widths and the height.
2. Prepare the window. Scrape away any loose paint or caulking, then caulk and paint the window frame as needed.
3. Clean the outside. Clean the outside of the window frame and glass now. Once the storm window is up, you can’t reach the exterior of the window without removing the storm inserts.
4. Caulk the back of the storm window. Run butyl caulk along the top and sides only, to create a weather-tight seal. Butyl stays pliable and can be painted, and it’s available at most lumber and hardware stores. Alternative: apply 1/8″ × 3/8″ adhesive-backed foam tape to the top and sides where they touch the mounting surface. Tape makes the storm window easier to remove later.
5. Mount it. Set the storm window against the blind stop, as high as it will go, so the expander bar can do its job. Check that it’s square and plumb and that the sides aren’t bowed in or out. Fasten it with ½″ screws about 12″ apart along the top and sides, using a screw gun. The blind stop is thin, and a longer screw can interfere with the top sash of a double hung window.
6. Set the expander. The expander is a metal strip that slips onto the bottom flange of the storm window to close the gap at the sill. It’s often shipped on the top of the window, so move it to the bottom flange, then tap it down until it rests on the sill.
7. Don’t caulk the expander. Leave a 1/16″ to 1/8″ gap under the expander. Storm windows are nearly airtight and can trap moist air leaking from the old window, which fogs the inside glass. A small gap lets a little air circulate and reduces condensation.